Day 1: Chollerford to Once Brewed
- Distance:
- ≈12 miles / 19 km
- Terrain:
- Open moor and the Whin Sill crags
- Feels like:
- The hardest day, straight off the train
- Hotel or B&B in Once Brewed
- Breakfast next morning
- Luggage moved to Once Brewed
Arrive by train at Hexham and take the short taxi to Chollerford, where your walking starts beside the North Tyne. Chesters Roman Fort and its riverside bathhouse are right by the start, worth a look if your train was early, but the day is long enough that most walkers save it for another trip. Out of the valley the path climbs steadily past Black Carts turret onto open moorland.
At Sewingshields the Whin Sill begins: short, sharp climbs and descents along dolerite crags, with the wall riding the cliff edge beside you. Housesteads, the most complete Roman fort in Britain, sits right on the path, and beyond it come Milecastle 37's arch, the cliffs above Crag Lough, and the gap where the Sycamore Gap tree stood. You finish at Once Brewed having walked the trail's most famous miles on day one.
Housesteads Roman Fort
The most complete Roman fort in Britain, high on the crags.
Worth knowing: Aim to be walking from Chollerford by late morning at the latest; we'll help you pick a train that makes it work. No cafés before Housesteads, so carry lunch and water, and pack full waterproofs for the most exposed stage.