Day 1 · walking day 1 of 4
Chollerford to Once Brewed
- ≈12 miles / 19 km
- Challenging
- Open moor and the Whin Sill crags
- Trail mile 31–42
Today feels like
The hardest day, straight off the train
- Morning
-
Out of the North Tyne valley the path climbs steadily onto open moorland.
- Midday
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At Sewingshields the Whin Sill begins: a rollercoaster of short, sharp climbs and descents along the crags, the wall riding the edge beside you, views that stretch to Scotland.
- Afternoon
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Housesteads, the most complete Roman fort in Britain, sits right on the path. Stand at the north gate and you look at the ground Roman sentries watched.
Sycamore Gap. The tree was felled by vandals in 2023, but the gap itself, wall plunging in and climbing out, remains one of the finest sights on the trail.
The Sill visitor centre and the Twice Brewed Inn sit just below the crags; Vindolanda is a steep mile or so south.
- Best moment
- Crag Lough's cliffs, with the wall running along the ridge above the water.
- Hardest part
- The repeated short, sharp climbs and descents across the Whin Sill crags.
- Worth knowing
- No cafés between Chollerford and Housesteads: carry lunch and plenty of water.
On the way
- mile 38 Sewingshields Crags. Where the Whin Sill begins: quieter than the honeypot mile, the wall snaking along the ridgeline.
- mile 40 Housesteads Roman Fort. The most complete Roman fort in Britain, right on the path; the visitor centre sits below it, a stiffish climb.
- mile 41 Vindolanda (off the path). A steep mile or so south of Once Brewed: the writing tablets, and a site that honestly takes two to four hours.
- mile 41 Crag Lough. Cliffs above the lough, with the wall running along the ridge.
- mile 42 Sycamore Gap. Castle Nick and Milecastle 39. The tree was felled by vandals in 2023; the gap itself remains one of the finest sights on the trail.
TonightOnce Brewed, in a hotel or B&B we've booked, with breakfast in the morning.
Your main bag is already there when you arrive.
Tomorrow: Once Brewed to Brampton, via Birdoswald — long, with the climbing front-loaded.